Zadar

Zadar is best approached through the contrast between stone squares and an open seafront. On the peninsula, the Forum and St Donatus create a recognisable historical setting, while the Sea Organ draws attention to sound generated by the movement of the sea. That change from looking to listening is a good reason not to reduce the city to a few sunset photographs. The Archaeological Museum helps contextualise remains seen outdoors, and the Museum of Ancient Glass offers a focused encounter with one material and its uses. Compared with smaller coastal settlements around Zadar, the city suits visitors who want several distinct cultural experiences connected by a walking visit. For a first day, choose one museum, a historic square and the waterfront. Additional days do not have to be filled with excursions: return to a place you previously crossed in passing. Leave time by the sea without expecting a predetermined melody or guaranteed perfect sunset. Zadar becomes more interesting when treated as a city of different experiences rather than scenery for a single imagined photograph.