Žirje is the outermost permanently inhabited island in the Šibenik archipelago, facing the open Adriatic near the southern approach to the Kornati islands. Its roughly 15 square kilometres contain 29 coves and about 40 kilometres of deeply indented shoreline. The village lies inland, while scheduled passenger and vehicle services dock at Muna Bay. The island’s strategic position survives in two sixth-century Byzantine sites, Gradina and the unfinished Gustirna fort, and in the Zvizdulje artillery battery, which helped defend Šibenik in 1991. Dry-stone walls, olive groves, vineyards and quiet tracks now connect these military layers and make Žirje particularly rewarding on foot or by bicycle. Velika Stupica, Mala Stupica and Koromačna are the best-known swimming coves, and the broken coastline usually offers shelter on one side of the island when winds rise. The surrounding waters have long supported local fishing, reflected in the fresh catch served by island taverns. Year-round links run from Šibenik, but Žirje’s scattered settlement pattern means visitors should plan drinking water, meals and the return sailing before setting out.
Žirje is not arranged around a single compact waterfront: part of the settlement sits inland, while Muna functions as its working harbour. The island’s character grew from fishing, isolation and control of sea routes towards Kornati and Šibenik. At Samograd, the Stari stan dry-stone complex is protected as cultural heritage, while fields, olive groves and vineyards remain visible across the landscape. One highly local agricultural curiosity is the žirajska sliva, a nearly indigenous green plum variety that has become increasingly rare.
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Gradina rises above Velika Stupica Cove on south-eastern Žirje, roughly 50 metres above the sea, overlooking the shipping route along the island’s outer side. Across from it, above Mala Stupica and Kabal Cove, stands Gustijerna; the two sites are in direct visual contact. Žirje also has a significant modern-history layer: its coastal artillery battery was taken over by Croatian defenders on 14 September 1991. During the September defence of Šibenik, guns from the island engaged Yugoslav Navy warships.
Velika Stupica and Mala Stupica are Žirje’s best-known swimming coves, each overlooked by a Byzantine fortification. Koromačna occupies another part of the deeply indented coast and is consistently highlighted in island guides. With 29 coves, swimmers and sailors can choose a side according to the bora, sirocco or afternoon mistral. These are not urban beaches joined by a paved promenade: sturdy footwear, drinking water and sun protection are more useful here than expectations of organised resort facilities.
Begin at Muna harbour, walk inland through the settlement and then choose a trail towards one of Žirje’s two Byzantine fortifications. Gradina above Velika Stupica explains the island’s command of the open sea, while unfinished Gustirna above Mala Stupica watched the inner route through the archipelago. Descend to Stupica for a swim, then return through dry-stone country and olive plots. Save the longer outing to the Zvizdulje battery for a separate walk, carrying sufficient water and allowing ample time to reach the return boat at Muna.
Visitor information for Žirje is provided by the Šibenik Tourist Board on +385 22 214 411 and at [email protected]. Its official destination page specifically recommends comfortable shoes, swimwear, drinking water and cash for smaller island businesses. Because the village, Muna, the Stupica coves and Zvizdulje are spread across the island, a day plan must account for walking time and the return sailing. Carry your own water when visiting the forts or remote coves, particularly in summer when the stone and gravel tracks offer little protection from the sun.
Jadrolinija’s year-round ferry from Šibenik links Zlarin, Obonjan, Kaprije and Žirje; the published 2026 information gives a total journey of about 1 hour 25 minutes to the outer part of the route. Services dock at Muna, Žirje’s main harbour. Unlike Zlarin and Kaprije, where vehicle unloading is restricted to specially authorised traffic, Žirje has roads and accepts vehicle-ferry traffic because its settlement and coves are widely dispersed. Check the specific departure and ticket conditions in Jadrolinija’s current 2026 timetable before travelling.
Scheduled services dock at Muna Bay, the island’s main harbour.
The sixth-century Byzantine fort of Gradina, also associated with the name Teuta’s Walls, stands above Velika Stupica.
Yes. Žirje has local roads and a vehicle-ferry connection from Šibenik.
The Zvizdulje artillery battery played an important role in the defence of Šibenik in 1991.
Three contrasting areas help explain Šibenik's historic centre: the steep lanes of Gorica, waterfront Dolac and the central streets around Kalelarga. In Gorica, stone steps climb towards St…
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Žirje
Larger towns nearby
Open in OpenStreetMap(opens in a new tab)The official tourism page records 29 coves along roughly 40 kilometres of coastline.
Town · Dalmatia – Šibenik
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