Tuhelj is a municipality in the western part of Krapina-Zagorje County, covering 23.9 km² with 2,043 residents at the 2021 census. Tuhelj itself, the administrative centre, has only about 195 inhabitants, and the largest settlement is Sveti Križ with 424. The name comes from an Old Slavic word for a hollow or damp spot, and the first written trace of the parish leads to Rome: a document of the Apostolic Court dated 21 October 1402 describes a church with a bell tower, a bell, a baptismal font and a cemetery, while the settlement itself is first recorded in 1403. That church still holds a bronze crucifixion by the sculptor Antun Augustinčić. A newer layer of identity comes from the spa in Tuheljske Toplice, where the Water Planet thermal complex stands beside Mihanović Manor, named after Antun Mihanović, who wrote the text of Horvatska domovina. The municipality borders Kumrovec, Klanjec, Pregrada, Desinić, Veliko Trgovišće and Krapinske Toplice, which makes it a handy base for days in the Zagorje. Four marked walking trails start from the spa and the manor, heading to the Chapel of the Holy Cross on its hill, through vineyards and towards the Three Kings church, and in summer the Summer Fest brings concerts and a goulash cooking contest.
The population of the municipality has fallen from a peak of 3,780 in 1971 to 2,043 in 2021, and 61 people were lost in the last census decade alone. Eleven settlements, from Banska Gorica to Trsteno, are scattered over hilly terrain on the slopes of Cesargradska gora. The economy rests on farming, construction, industry and hospitality, while tourism revolves around the thermal springs in Tuheljske Toplice. The administrative history is winding: from 1962 to 1992 the area belonged to the municipality of Klanjec, Tuhelj became independent in 1993, and Kumrovec split off in 1997. The central school was built in 1982 and the volunteer fire brigade was founded in 1906. The Tuhelj parish still covers both Tuhelj and Kumrovec.
The parish church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in the centre of Tuhelj shows layers of styles: the sanctuary is the oldest, Gothic part, followed by Baroque and neo-Gothic additions; after restoration it was blessed in 2001 by Archbishop Josip Bozanić. The chapel of St Margaret in Lenišće was built in 1703 on the site of a wooden chapel from 1639 and keeps a Baroque altar from 1722. The chapel of the Holy Cross on the hill above the spa is the oldest chapel in the parish: a Gothic chapel was first recorded in 1519, and the present building dates from 1831. Mihanović Manor, a protected cultural property, has a classicist plan facing the park and a main veranda on four columns, and is now part of the Terme Tuhelj complex.
The day starts at Terme Tuhelj in Tuheljske Toplice: the Water Planet covers about 15,000 m² with eight pools filled with thermal water, next to one of the largest wellness centres in Croatia. For time on land, pick one of four marked walking trails: the circular route around Tuheljske Toplice takes about three hours and climbs to Mihanović Manor, while the Rakovec – Sveti Križ trail leads to the chapel on the hill. At the manor you can see the bust of Antun Mihanović with a plaque and a QR code that opens multimedia stories about his life, and the restaurant terrace looks over the Zagorje hills. In summer the Summer Fest, which in 2024 ran from 21 July to 18 August, brings concerts, a gastro show and a goulash cooking contest.
The main address is the Dvorac Mihanović restaurant beside Terme Tuhelj, with a wine cellar and a terrace overlooking the Zagorje hills. The menu splits into traditional Zagorje dishes, noble recipes from the era of Count Brigljević, and lighter dishes; štrukli is baked in four ways, and there are Zagorje soup, mlinci, corn porridge and, to order, roast turkey, duck and goose. The cellar offers more than 40 Croatian wines, with an emphasis on Zagorje producers Zdolc, Sever and Bolfan. Themed noble dinners with music are held from time to time. Bistro Zelengaj in Dubrovčan is the starting point of the marked trail to Velika Erpenja, so it suits a meal before or after a walk.
The municipal administration is at Tuhelj 36 (tel. 049/557 244). Tourist facilities are concentrated in Tuheljske Toplice, where Biser Zagorja (tel. +385 49 556 630) works from Mihanović Manor at Gajeva 4 and, together with the municipality and the spa, organises the summer Summer Fest (in 2024, 21 July to 18 August). The spa complex includes a hotel with 264 rooms. The indoor pools run all year, while the outdoor part of the Water Planet is seasonal, so opening hours are worth checking before you set out. Saunas and wellness are charged separately from pool entry, and on the feast of the Assumption, 15 August, Tuhelj holds a procession and Mass.
Terme Tuhelj has free parking for all visitors. The trailheads sit beside it: the Rakovec – Sveti Križ trail starts from the spa car park, the circular route around Tuheljske Toplice from the car park near the old pools, and the route around Mihanović Manor from the car park in front of the manor. You can leave the car in one place and combine a swim, a visit to the manor and a walk. From the manor car park a path climbs to a viewpoint above the building with a view over the whole spa complex, and a shaded, tree-lined path leads to the Chapel of the Holy Cross.
Tuhelj lies about 40 km north-west of Zagreb, and the drive takes roughly 45 to 55 minutes. For most visitors a car is the most convenient choice. Public transport includes Presečki Grupa county line 39, Tuheljske Toplice – Kumrovec, and information on buses from Zagreb is available at the Zagreb bus station (072 500 400). Bus and rail connections exist around Zabok and Krapina, from where the spa is reached by road. The municipality borders Kumrovec to the west, Klanjec to the south and Krapinske Toplice to the east, so neighbouring places are easy to reach on minor roads and walking trails.
After Antun Mihanović, author of the text of Horvatska domovina, who often stayed at the manor; his sister married into the Brigljević family, who owned it after the Erdődys.
In a document of the Apostolic Court in Rome dated 21 October 1402, while the settlement itself is first recorded in 1403.
About three hours; it starts at the car park near the old pools, climbs to Mihanović Manor and returns via Mala Erpenja.
The chapel of the Holy Cross on the hill above the spa: a Gothic chapel was first recorded in 1519, and the present building dates from 1831.
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Tuhelj
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Open in OpenStreetMap(opens in a new tab)Sveti Križ with 424 residents (2021), while Tuhelj itself has about 195.
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